Alpine Club elects three new Life Members
Sunday, 13 October,
New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC) elects three new Life Members
New Zealand Alpine Club General Manager, Sam Newton, has announced the election of three Life Members of the New Zealand Alpine Club.
John Entwisle, Guy Cotter and Ed Cotter have been elected to life membership of NZAC, which recognises an outstanding contribution to mountaineering, rock climbing or the Club.
“Life membership is an exclusive club within a club, awarded to only those who have contributed and achieved at the highest levels,” Mr Newton said.
“It is the first time a father and son have been awarded Life Membership”
Life Members are elected by the Club Committee, upon the recommendation of a committee of the President and not less than three past Presidents.
New Zealand Alpine Club immediate-past President, Stu Gray, had no hesitation in recommending the three nominees, who were elected unanimously.
“These are three mountaineers of the highest calibre and have a huge influence in variety of ways,” Mr Gray said
“John was born in Yorkshire and completed many difficult climbs both on the crags of his native England and in the European Alps, before immigrating to New Zealand in 1972. He trained and qualified as an IFMGA Mountain Guide, and developed a very successful business providing instruction courses, one-on-one tuition and guided ascents of mountains in New Zealand and Europe for many years.”
“John has completed numerous first ascents in the Southern Alps and established dozens of new rock climbs across New Zealand. Perhaps his greatest contribution has been in the realm of instruction, serving as an assessor and committee member in both the New Zealand Mountain Guides Association (NZMGA) and the New Zealand Outdoor Instructors Association (NZOIA).”
“A humble and humorous man that gives generously of his time and expertise, he has been an instructor and mentor to literally hundreds of New Zealand climbers.”
“Guy has an outstanding record as one of New Zealand’s leading climbers. He has built an international reputation over 40 years of climbing and ascents in New Zealand, Antarctica, the Himalayas and elsewhere. He has led or been a member of some 30 climbing expeditions and has successfully developed one of the world’s leading guiding businesses, Adventure Consultants, based in Wanaka.”
“Guy became a fully qualified IFMGA mountain & ski guide at a young age. In addition to Mt Everest, Guy has climbed five other 8000 m peaks - Makalu, Cho Oyu, Gasherbrum II, Manaslu (2012) and Lhotse (2013). In 1997, Guy guided clients to the summit of three 8000 m peaks, a feat never before achieved by a western guide. In 2005 Guy completed the highly coveted objective of summiting the seven highest summits on the seven continents.”
“Adventure Consultants is regarded internationally as a model guiding company in terms of risk management, attitudes to and treatment of local staff and its mountain ethics. Guy has arguably done more than any other New Zealander in recent years to consolidate New Zealand's position as a mountaineering nation with a proud tradition of both amateur climbing and professional guiding.”
“Ed is a much loved and respected member of the New Zealand climbing community. Ed was one of New Zealand’s most active climbers and a contributor to New Zealand’s growing mountaineering reputation during the late 1940’s and early 1950’s.”
“Ed began his climbing career in the late 1940’s and quickly earned a reputation for technical skill, agility and fitness”
“In 1951 Ed was invited by Earle Riddiford to join a NZAC supported expedition to the Garwhal area of the Indian Himalaya. As preparation Ed joined Earle Riddiford, Bill Beaven, Ed Hillary and George Lowe to climb Mt Ellie de Beaumont by the unclimbed Maximilian Ridge. This was has hailed as a great mountaineering achievement of the era and it was to be 30 years before the climb had its second ascent.”
“Ed with Earle Riddiford and Sherpa Pasang made the first ascent of Mukut Parbat, 7240 m. This was the highest peak then climbed by New Zealanders and remains a significant ascent. The expedition succeeded on five other peaks over 6000 m.”
The New Zealand Alpine Club was formed in 1891 and aims to promote and support climbing at all levels within New Zealand. The club has over 3200 members, and five full-time staff based at its headquarters in Christchurch. The scope of its activities are broad including publishing, the provision of 17 alpine huts and base lodges, instruction, advocacy, insurance and support for overseas climbing expeditions.
A full list of Life Members of the New Zealand Alpine Club can be found at: http://alpineclub.org.nz/membership/life