Cablegate: Asiaweek's "Brunei Fun?" Article

R 190844Z SEP 97
FM AMEMBASSY BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN
TO SECSTATE WASHDC 7211

UNCLAS SECTION 01 OF 06 BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN 000822

DEPT FOR EAP/PIMBS

E.O. 12958: N/A
TAGS: PGOV PHUM SOCI BX
SUBJECT: ASIAWEEK'S "BRUNEI FUN?" ARTICLE
CAUSES A STIR

1. SUMMARY AND COMMENT: A LONG ARTICLE
ENTITLED "BRUNEI FUN?" APPEARED IN THE
SEPTEMBER 12 ISSUE OF ASIAWEEK MAGAZINE. IN
THE ARTICLE, SENIOR ASIAWEEK CORRESPONDENT
ROGER MITTEN, EXAMINES CURRENT TRENDS IN
BRUNEI SOCIETY, POLITICS, CULTURE, AND THE
BRUNEI ROYAL FAMILY. THE CONTEXT OF THE
ARTICLE IS TNE BRUNEI GOVERNMENT'S EFFORTS TO
PROMOTE THE COUNTRY, A SELF-LABELED
CONSERVATIVE MUSLIM MONARCHY, AS A TOURIST
DESTINATION, AND THE INHERENT CONFLICT OF
VALUES THIS REVEALS.

2. THE THRUST OF THE ARTICLE IS THAT BRUNEI
IS LIBERALIZING SOCIALLY AND POLITICALLY, AND
THAT THIS LOOSENING UP HAS TACIT APPROVAL
FROM THE HIGHEST LEVEL OF GOVERNMENT, I.E.
THE SULTAN HIMSELF, BUT IT IS MLTTEN'S
ALLEGATIONS ABOUT RELATIONS BETWEEN THE
SULTAN, PRINCE JEFRI AND PRINCE MOHAMED WHICH
ARE PROVOKING CONTROVERSY. MITTEN STATES
THAT PRINCE JEFRI DID NOT STEP DOWN AS
FINANCE MINISTER, EARLIER THIS YEAR, BUT WAS
SACKED BY THE SULTAN FOR FINANCIAL
MISDEALINGS IN CONNECTION WITH JEFRI'S MEGA-
CORPORATION - AMEDEO. MITTEN ALSO REPORTS ON
PRINCE JEFRI'S ALLEGED PHILANDERING AND THE
MISS USA CASE. IT IS SURPRISING THAT MITTEN
NAMES BRUNEI GOVERNMENT AND PRIVATE SECTOR
OFFICIALS AS SOURCES, QUOTING THEIR UNUSUALLY
CANDID COMMENTS ON THE SULTAN'S WEALTH,
BRUNEI'S ILLICIT NIGHT LIFE, INTERNAL
SECURITY, BOOTLEGGING AND PRESS FREEDOM.
THE ARTICLE CAN BE DOWNLOADED FROM THE
HOMEPAGE OF ASIAWEEK MAGAZINE ON THE
INTERNET, BUT COMMERICAL COPIES OF THE
MAGAZINE HAVE BEEN WITHHELD BY THE GOB.
EMBOFF HEARD EARLIER IN THE WEEK THAT THE GOB
PLANNED TO RESPOND TO THE ASIAWEEK ARTICLE,
AN UNUSUAL MOVE IN ITSELF, AND THE GOB DID SO
ON SEPTEMBER 19 IN A FRONT-PAGE ARTICLE IN
THE BORNEO BULLETIN, WHICH WILL BE SUBJECT OF
SEPTEL. POST IS TRANSMITTING THE ASIAWEEK
ARTICLE IN FULL, DESPITE ITS LENGTH, TO GIVE
WASHINGTON A FLAVOR OF THE CURRENT BRUNEI
SCENE.

END SUMMARY AND COMMENT.

BEGIN TEXT:

3. SEPTEMBER 12, 1997 - FUN BRUNEI?

MIDNIGHT, THURSDAY. A DIM RESTAURANT FULL OF
YOUNG PEOPLE ON A SIDE STREET IN GADONG, JUST
OUTSIDE BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN, CAPITAL OF
BRUNEI. PORTRAITS OF THE COUNTRY'S RULER,
SULTAN RASSANAL BOLKIAH, AND HIS TWO WIVES,
SALEHA AND MARIAM, HANG ON THE WALL. CALLED
'HIS MAJESTY' OR PLAIN 'HM,' HIS BENIGN
VISAGE GAZES DOWN ON THE SMOKY ROOM. THERE IS
MUSIC MIXED WITH CHATTER AND LAUGHTER.
FILIPINO WAITRESSES BANTER WITH THE GUYS;
COUPLES GAZE INTO EACH OTHER'S EYES. SOME
ORDER "SPECIAL TEA" -- BEER SERVED IN CUPS
FROM A TEAPOT. INELEGANT, PERHAPS, BUT IN
"DRY" BRUNEI, BEER IS BEER. NEXT DOOR, THE
DRAPES OF ANOTHER EATERY ARE DRAWN; THE
TABLES AND CHAIRS SHOVED AGAINST THE WALLS.
LOUDER, FUNKIER MUSIC BEGINS AND THE GUYS AND
GALS BEGIN TO BOOGIE. IT'S ALL DONE BEHIND
CURTAINS AND WITH A LOOKOUT; BUT, STILL, THIS
IS THE ALLEGEDLY STAID AND ULTRA-CONSERVATIVE
ISLAMIC SULTANATE OF BRUNEI. WHAT GIVES?
ALTHOUGH THE SCENE IS NOT YET COMMON, IT IS
ONE OF MANY SIGNS THAT THIS TINY, OIL-RICH
NATION ON THE NORTHWEST COAST OF BORNEO IS
LOOSENING UP. THIS IS NO ACCIDENT. HM'S
GOVERNMENT IS PROACTIVELY "SELLING" HIS
COUNTRY AS A FUN PLACE TO VISIT. IN BANDAR'S
NEWEST MALL, EURO-CHIC IS AVAILABLE AT TRENDY
BOUTIQUES -- ALL DISPLAYING SEXY WINDOW ADS
THAT WOULD NOT BE OUT OF PLACE IN PARIS OR
NEW YORK. THERE ARE SWISH ITALIAN. JAPANESE
AND SICHUAN RESTAURANTS ALONGSIDE THE USUAL
MCDONALD'S, PIZZA HUT AND DELIFRANCE. THERE'S
A CYBER CAFE;. CAFFEINE ADDICTS CAN PARTAKE
IN 24-HOUR COFFEE SHOPS. BOOKSTORES SELL
FOREIGN TITLES THAT GET PAST TNE CENSORS
FASTER THAN IN MALAYSIA OR INDONESIA.

4. A NEW CINEPLEX WILL SOON OPEN TO
COMPLEMENT BANDAR'S TWO CINEMAS (REMEMBER,
THIS IS A TOWN OF ONLY 55,000 PEOPLE).
CAPITAL GOLD, WITH ITS OUTRAGEOUS, CAMPY DJS,
BLARES ON CAR RADIOS REAL-TIME DIRECT FROM
LONDON. THANKS TO UNFETTERED SATELLITE TV,
THERE'S LOTS OF CHOICE ON THE TUBE. VIDEO
SHOPS RENT CURRENT MOVIES. SKIMPILY CLAD
WHITNEY HOUSTON AND PELVIS-THRUSTING MICHAEL
JACKSON (WHO HAD PROBLEMS IN NEIGHBORING
MALAYSIA), HAVE BOTH PERFORMED WITHOUT HASSLE
AT BRUNEI'S FAMED DISNEYLAND-TYPE JERUDONG
PARK -- WHICH STILL PAYS TRIBUTE TO WACKO
JACKO NIGHTLY IN A SPECTACULAR LASER SHOW.

5. MALAYSIAN LAWYER V.L. KANDAN RECENTLY
VISITED BRUNEI FOR TNE FIRST TIME IN 10
YEARS. HE WAS BLOWN AWAY. "THE CHANGE IS
FANTASTIC. THERE ARE SO MANY MORE THINGS TO
SEE. JERUDONG PARK IS WONDERFUL, THE BEST IN
SOUTHEAST ASIA." A WESTERN DIPLOMAT EXPLAINS
WHAT'S HAPPENING: "ALL THESE THINGS -- STAR
TV, CAPITAL RADIO, THE FEISTIER BORNEO
BULLETIN, THE ASEAN AND APEC MEETINGS -- ARE
CHANGING BRUNEI FOR THE BETTER." THIS IS NO
FULL-BORE PERESTROIKA. BUT IT'S A DISTINCT
THAW. IF NOT EVERYBODY IS JUMPING IN WITH
BOTH FEET, MANY ARE AT LEAST DIPPING A TOE.

6. TAKE ALCOHOL. OFFICIALLY, BRUNEI WENT DRY
IN 1991. YET BEER IS EASY TO GET, HARD LIQUOR
NOT MUCN MORE DIFFICULT, WINE TOUGHER BECAUSE
FEW LOCALS DRINK IT -- ALTHOUGH SPIFFY DEALS
RESTAURANT AT THE SHERATON WILL DISPENSE WITH
THE TEACUP CHARADE AND PROVIDE WINE GLASSES
AND AN ICE BUCKET FOR THE BRING-YOUR-OWN
CROWD. "I DON'T KNOW ANYONE WHO HAS A PROBLEM
BUYING BEER," SAYS PETER STEELE, MD OF BRUNEI
OIL OPERATIONS FOR NEW ZEALAND'S FLETCHER
CHALLENGE. "YOU ORDER A CASE FOR $50 OR $60;
IT'S DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME." MOST OF IT
COMES BY BOAT FROM LIMBANG, DOWNRIVER IN EAST
MALAYSIA'S SARAWAK STATE.

7. ASIDE FROM OIL AND GAS, BOOTLEGGING IS
BRUNEI'S THRIVINGEST INDUSTRY. TOURISM CHIEF
SHEIKH JAMALUDDIN MOHAMED ALLOWS "WE MAKE
BOOTLEGGERS RICH." GRAVEL BARGES SMUGGLE IN
THOUSANDS OF CASES OF BEER. "GO TO THE
BEACH," SAYS BANDAR LAWYER AHMAD ISA, SON OF
HOME AFFAIRS MINISTER ISA IBRAHIM. "YOU'LL
SEE THAI WORKERS OPENLY DRINKING CANS OF
HEINEKEN AND EXPATS AND TOURISTS WITH BULGING
ICE COOLERS. IS IT A BIG DEAL?"

8. BANDAR MAYOR RAHMAN MOHIDDIN SEEMS TO
THINK IT IS. "TNERE SHOULD BE NO DRINKING,"
HE SAYS. "WE CANNOT BE GOOD MUSLIMS AND ALLOW
DRINKING IN PUBLIC PLACES. IN PRIVATE, IT IS
OKAY." FOR NOW, ESPECIALLY SINCE MUSLIMS
RARELY HIT THE BEACH OR DINE AT DEALS, THE
SURREPTITIOUS IMBIBING RARELY CAUSES OFFENSE.
BUT RESTAURATEURS EXPLOIT THE UNOFFICIAL
LAXITY AT THEIR OWN RISK. TRENDY ITALIAN
EATERY FRATINI'S EARNED AN OFFICIAL WARNING
FOR ALLOWING BYO CUSTOMERS TO INDULGE TOO
OVERTLY.

9. THE WARNINGS MAY BECOME REDUNDANT, THANKS
TO THE TOURISM THRUST. BRUNEI WANTS TO
ATTRACT FAMILIES, BUT EVEN VACATIONING MUMS
AND DADS LIKE TO WINE AND DINE. SOON THEY MAY
BE ABLE TO, WHEN THE FIVE-STAR JERUDONG
RESORT HOTEL OPENS LATER THIS YEAR. BUILT BY
AMEDEO DEVELOPMENT, A COMPANY RUN BY HM'S
BROTHER, PRINCE JEFRI, IT WILL LIKELY PROVIDE
ALCOHOL AND ENTERTAINMENT.

10. THE SULTAN, 51, INHERITED THE THRONE
UPON HIS FATHER'S ABDICATION IN 1967. BESIDES
JEFRI, HE HAS SIX SISTERS AND TWO BROTHERS,
PRINCE MOHAMED, THE FOREIGN MINISTER, AND
PRINCE SUFRI, WHO IS ILL AND PLAYS A
PERIPHERAL ROLE IN NATIONAL AFFAIRS. HM CAME
TO POWER FIVE YEARS AFTER A BRIEF FLIRTATION
WITH DEMOCRACY; WHEN THE FIRST AND ONLY POLL
IN 1962 TURNED VIOLENT, THE VICTORIOUS BRUNEI
PEOPLE'S PARTY WAS BANNED AND THE
CONSTITUTION SUSPENDED. A STATE OF EMERGENCY
REMAINS TO THIS DAY.

11. INCREASINGLY, HOWEVER, PEOPLE ARE
WILLING TO TALK OPENLY ABOUT POLITICS AND
OFFICIAL ACCOUNTABILITY. HM HIMSELF SPOKE ON
THE SUBJECT DURING A VISIT TO KUALA LUMPUR
LAST WEEK. AS THE 21ST CENTURY DAWNS, THE
SULTAN KNOWS ABSOLUTIST RULE CAN'T LAST.
THERE HAS BEEN OFFICIAL TALK ABOUT ADOPTING
LIMITED DEMOCRACY. HM APPARENTLY FAVORS THE
CHINA TRAJECTORY: ENRICHMENT, THEN, CAREFULLY
CIRCUMSCRIBED POLLS. INSIDERS SAY HM IS
GRADUALLY LOOSENING HIS GRIP ON LIFESTYLES
AND THE MEDIA SO PEOPLE CAN GET ACQUAINTED
WITH THE ISSUES AND, AT SOME POINT, VOTE
INTELLIGENTLY.

12. CERTAINLY, MORE PEOPLE ARE WILLING TO
SPEAK OUT. ASIDE FROM A MALAY-LANGUAGE
WEEKLY, THERE IS ONLY THE ENGLISH-LANGUAGE
BORNEO BULLETIN (THERE ARE NO BRUNEI CHINESE
PAPERS). GIVEN HEAVY MEDIA RESTRICTIONS, THE
BULLETIN IS ADMIRED FOR PUSHING THE ENVELOPE
-- PARTICULARLY IN ITS ACERBIC LETTERS PAGE.
CRITICAL LETTERS ARE TOLERATED BECAUSE THE
PAPER IS OWNED BY HM'S BROTHER, PRINCE
MOHAMED, AND BECAUSE IT ACTS AS AN ESCAPE
VALVE THAT LETS AUTHORITIES KNOW WHERE THE
NATIONAL PRESSURE POINTS ARE.

13. NOT THAT THE BULLETIN IS UNCAGED.
RECENTLY, IT REPORTED THAT AN ISSUE OF ASIA
TIMES MAGAZINE (A SUPPLEMENT IN THE WIDELY
SOLD SINGAPORE STRAITS TIMES), HAD BEEN
BANNED OVER AN ARTICLE DEEMED INCOMPATIBLE
WITH SOCIETY. EVERYONE IMMEDIATELY WANTED TO
KNOW WHAT IT WAS ALL ABOUT. "WE WONDERED,"
RECALLS A DIPLOMAT, "IF IT WAS ANOTHER STORY
ABOUT JEFRI'S WOMANIZING OR HM'S RICHES, OR
WHAT?" IT TURNED OUT THAT TNE ITEM WAS SEEN
TO GLORIFY DRINKING. THE HOME AFFAIRS
MINISTRY CHASTISED THE BULLETIN FOR REVEALING
THE BAN. THE INTERNAL SECURITY DEPARTMENT
(ISD) WANTED TO KNOW IF THE EDITOR WAS TRYING
TO STIR UP TROUBLE.

14. LATER, ISD MEN VISITED THE BULLETIN'S
OFFICES TO DEMAND ADDRESSES OF READERS WHO
HAD WRITTEN LETTERS COMPLAINING ABOUT
GOVERNMENT SERVICES AND PUBLIC UTILITIES. "IF
WE'D COMPLIED." SAID AN EDITORIAL STAFFER,
"THEY'D HAVE GIVEN THESE PEOPLE A HARD TIME."
WITHOUT BULLETIN OWNER PRINCE MOHAMED'S
BACKING, EDITORS PROBABLY WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO
STAND UP TO ISD STAFF AND CONTINUE PRINTING
SUCH LETTERS. ANOTHER SIGN BRUNEI IS OPENING
UP.

15. THE LETTERS ARE SURPRISINGLY TRENCHANT;
READERS WAX INDIGNANT ABOUT SERVICES IN RURAL
AREAS -- WATER AND POWER SUPPLY TO VILLAGES
IS ERRATIC. MANY COMPLAINTS RELATE TO
TRAFFIC, ESPECIALLY ARBITRARY ROAD BLOCKS,
DELAYED CAR TAX REFUNDS, HIGH PARKING FEES,
STEEP CAB FARES ($26 FROM THE AIRPORT TO
NEARBY BANDAR) AND THE 20T-200T INCREASE IN
VEHICLE PURCHASE TAX INTRODUCED IN 1995.
OTHERS LAMENT PHONE CHARGES, GRAFT, RED TAPE
AND CIVIL SERVICE PAY.

16. THIS NEW WILLINGNESS TO CRITICIZE
AUTHORITY CAN GET PRETTY INTENSE. WHEN
CUSTOMERS AT PIZZA HUT DISCOVERED THAT THE
CHICKEN TOPPING WAS UNAVAILABLE "DUE TO A
TEMPORARY SHORTAGE," THEY TURNED THEIR SCORN
ON A GOVERNMENT DECREE THAT ONLY HALAL
CHICKEN (SLAUGHTERED THE MUSLIM WAY) COULD BE
IMPORTED. THE DICTAT WAS FINE IN PRINCIPLE,
EXCEPT SUFFICIENT HALAL SUPPLIES HAD NOT BEEN
ARRANGED. WITH THE CURBS IMPOSED ON WESTERN
CHICKEN AND THE HALAL SUPPLY FROM MALAYSIA
UNABLE TO MEET DEMAND, THERE WAS A SHORTFALL.
SO NO CHICKEN PIZZAS. BOOTLEGGERS NOW HAVE A
NEW WAY TO GET RICH: SMUGGLING POULTRY.

INCREASINGLY BRUNEIANS DARE TO DISCUSS
EXTERNAL AFFAIRS -- THOUGH THEY RELY ON
OUTSIDE SOURCES TO GET THEIR INFORMATION.
CRITICAL COVERAGE OF REGIONAL ISSUES IS
SIMPLY NOT PERMITTED IN THE LOCAL MEDIA. "WE
DON'T CARRY NEWS ON ASEAN THAT REFLECTS
NEGATIVELY ON THE GROUP," SAYS BADARUDDIN
GHANI. WHO RUNS RADIO TELEVISION BRUNEI. "A
PROTEST ABOUT EAST TIMOR WOULD BE IGNORED."

17. AS FOR HM, WELL, HE IS A CLOSED BOOK --
CERTAINLY IN THE LOCAL MEDIA. OUTSIDERS KNOW
MORE ABOUT HIM THAN HIS OWN SUBJECTS DO, AND
TOURISM CHIEF JAMALUDDIN WANTS TO EXPLOIT THE
RECOGNITION FACTOR. "WHAT'S THE FIRST THING
THAT COMES TO MIND WHEN YOU THINK OF BRUNEI?"
HE ASKS. "THE SULTAN. THE WORLD'S RICHEST MAN
AND ALL THAT." JAMALUDDIN OFFERS THIS SLOGAN:
"VISIT THE LAND OF THE SULTAN OF BRUNEI, THIS
IS HIS HOME." AT HOME, HOWEVER, BRUNEIANS
PREFER TO RESPECT THE MONARCH'S PRIVACY.
LAWYER AHMAD ISA ASKS: "WHY DO WE NEED TO
KNOW ABOUT HM?"

18. WELL, PERHAPS BECAUSE HE IS KING, PM,
DEFENSE MINISTER, FINANCE MINISTER, COMMANDER
OF THE ARMED FORCES, HEAD OF THE ROYAL BRUNEI
POLICE, THE PETROLEUM UNIT, BROADCASTING,
INFORMATION SERVICES, AND SUPREME HEAD OF
ISLAM IN BRUNEI. NOT TO MENTION ALL THAT
DOUGH: $3B BILLION AT LAST COUNT. (LAST WEEK
HIS GOVERNMENT REPORTEDLY SPENT HUNDREDS OF
MILLIONS TO HELP REVERSE THE SLIDE OF THE
MALAYSIAN AND SINGAPORE CURRENCIES.) HM HAS A
FLEET OF PLANES, INCLUDING BOEINGS AND AN
AIRBUS, PARKED IN HIS OWN TERMINAL. ASKED
WHAT HE THINKS ABOUT ALL THIS, PROMINENT
BUSINESSMAN RAZALI JOHARI'S RESPONSE IS
PRETTY TYPICAL. "WHY SHOULDN'T HM HAVE SO
MUCH MONEY?" HE SAYS. "IT'S HIS COUNTRY. HE
CAN DO NO WRONG." IF THE SULTAN IS CRITICIZED
AT ALL, IT IS USUALLY FOR NOT REINING IN HIS
FAMILY.

NOTHING RILES CONSERVATIVES LIKE PRINCE
JEFRI'S PENCHANT FOR BEAUTIFUL WOMEN, HIS
FINANCIAL DEALINGS AND HIS SON HAKIM, WHO
SHARES HIS FATHER'S PASSIONS. IT IS AN OPEN
SECRET THAT WOMEN ARE FLOWN IN TO THE PALACES
TO "ENTERTAIN." SHANNON MARKETIC, A FORMER
MISS U.S.A., MADE GLOBAL HEADLINES WITH
ALLEGATIONS OF SEXUAL ABUSE BY BRUNEI ROYALS.
THE COCKTAIL CIRCUIT HABITUDS TALK ABOUT IT,
BUT IT'S NOT MUCH DISCUSSED ON THE STREET
BECAUSE THE LOCAL MEDIA IGNORED IT. HM DENIES
THE CHARGES AND LAST MONTH A U.S. COURT RULED
HE HAD SOVEREIGN IMMUNITY: IT REMAINED TO BE
SEEN WHETHER BROTHER JEFRI WOULD MERIT THE
SAME IMMUNITY.

19. THE CASE IS UNUSUAL SINCE MOST WOMEN
INVITED TO THE SULTANATE ARE PAID WELL AND
DON'T COMPLAIN. ONE AMBASSADOR HAS SEEN IT
ALL TOO OFTEN. HE RECALLS "A BEAUTIFUL GIRL,
NOT TOO INTELLIGENT" WHO WAS HIRED AS A "PR
ASSISTANT" FOR A ROYAL. SHE TOLD HIM SHE
"LOVED WORKING" IN BRUNEI. IN THE MORNINGS.
SHE AND HER COLLEAGUES WERE FREE TO DO AS
THEY PLEASED, MAYBE PLAY TENNIS OR SWIM.
AFTER A NAP, THEY APPLIED COSMETICS AND SPENT
THE EVENINGS ENTERTAINING. THE PR ASSISTANT,
SAYS THE AMBASSADOR, NEVER DEFINED
"ENTERTAIN."

20. WHATEVER IT IS, HM SEEMS TO TOLERATE IT.
"I THINK PERHAPS HE DOESN'T ALWAYS KNOW,"
SAYS ONE DIPLOMAT. "THERE ARE JUST SO MANY
PEOPLE IN THE ROYAL FAMILY. THOUGH JEFRI HAS
BEEN THE MOST BLATANT." FOREIGN MINISTER
MOHAMED, THE MOST RELIGIOUS OF HM'S THREE
BROTHERS, HAS APPARENTLY EXPRESSED WORRY
ABOUT JEFRI'S DECADENT BEHAVIOR (PERHAPS BEST
EXEMPLIFIED BY HIS LUXURY YACHT TITS, WITH
ITS TWO LIFEBOATS NIPPLE 1 AND NIPPLE 2).
"OKAY, IT'S FAMILY," SAYS A BUSINESSMAN. "BUT
IF HM WANTS TO STOP THIS KIND OF THING, HE
SHOULD CRACK THE WHIP."

IN FEBRUARY, HE DID -- ABRUPTLY SACKING JEFRI
AS FINANCE MINISTER AND STRIPPING HIM OF HIS
OTHER GOVERNMENT POSTS. IT STUNNED BRUNEIANS,
MAINLY BECAUSE IT WAS HM'S BROTHER AND ALSO
BECAUSE IT WAS THE FIRST CABINET CHANGE IN 10
YEARS. WHILE BRUNEIANS WERE DENIED A CREDIBLE
EXPLANATION, THE WORD AMONG COGNOSCENTI IS
THAT JEFRI WENT DOWN NOT SO MUCH FOR ALLEGED
PHILANDERING BUT BECAUSE OF FINANCIAL
PROBLEMS INVOLVING HIS COMPAMY, AMEDEO
DEVELOPMENT CORP.

21. FOREIGN CONSULTANTS INVOLVED IN THE WORK
SAY THE AMEDEO SITUATION RELATES TO SO-CALLED
ISTANA PROJECTS. FOR THESE, GOVERNMENT FUNDS
ARE APPORTIONED FOR WORK ON ROYAL PALACES.
OWING TO ACCOUNTABILITY PROBLEMS, HM PUT A
STOP TO ALL ISTANA PROJECTS. NOW A LOT OF
CONTRACTORS ARE OUT OF POCKET. THE SULTAN
TOOK OVER THE FINANCE PORTFOLIO HIMSELF AND
REPORTEDLY BROUGHT IN BRITISH AUDITORS TO
SORT OUT THE MESS. THEN HE TURNED HIS GAZE ON
OTHER MINISTERS, DROPPING BY TO SEE WHAT THEY
WERE UP TO.

22. SINCE JEFRI WAS AN ADVOCATE OF LOOSENING
UP. HIS FALL CAUSED A HICCUP IN PLANS TO EASE
CONTROLS ON EVERYTHING FROM ALCOHOL TO THE
MEDIA. BEING A FUN-LOVING SORT, HIS
TRANSGRESSIONS HAVE BOLSTERED THE
CONSERVATIVES. SO THE OPENING OF THE LICENSED
RESORT AT JERUDONG HAS BEEN POSTPONED. AND
BANDAR MAYOR RAHMAN WILL ISSUE NO MORE
PERMITS FOR VIDEO-GAME ARCADES (THERE ARE
ONLY FOUR ). "THAT'S WHERE KIDS GET INTO
TROUBLE," HE SAYS. "I'M GLAD WE HAVE NO
DISCOS OR KARAOKE LOUNGES, NO BEAUTY
PAGEANTS."

23. OF COURSE. SUCH RESTRICTIONS DRIVE MORE
YOUNG PEOPLE TO BEER-IN-A-TEAPOT HANGOUTS AND
UNOFFICIAL DISCOS. PACKS OF KIDS AIMLESSLY
TROLL THE MALLS IN THEIR BACKWARD BASEBALL
CAPS, BAGGY JEANS AND SNEAKERS. CODDLED BY A
WELFARE STATE, YOUTHS REFUSE MENIAL JOBS AND
LOITER IN GANGS. "THEY ARE DROPOUTS WHO
FAILED THEIR SCHOOL EXAMS," SAYS MUSA
MOHIDDIN, AN EXECUTIVE WITH ROYAL BRUNEI
AIRLINES. "THEY WON'T DO JOBS DONE BY THAIS
AND BANGLADESHIS." UNEMPLOYMENT IS OFFICIALLY
4.7, BUT AMONG YOUTHS IT IS AT LEAST DOUBLE
THAT.

24. IN JULY TWO GANGS OF PUNKS HAD A RUMBLE
IN THE YAYASAN SULTAN MALL. IT WAS MORE FOR
SHOW THAN A REAL GANG TANGLE, BUT MANY FEAR
THESE UNEMPLOYED YOUTHS WILL BE INTO DRUGS
AND CRLME SOON -- IF THEY ARE NOT ALREADY.
"THIS IS A BIG PROBLEM," SAYS A LAWYER,
"YOUNG KIDS TAKING MARIJUANA, ECSTASY." A NEW
DRUG REHAB CENTER HAS OPENED IN GADONG
SUBURB.

25. THE ROOT OF UNEMPLOYMENT IS BRUNEI'S
ECONOMIC RELIANCE ON OIL AWD GAS. CAREER
OPPORTUNITIES ARE LIMITED. WITH INCREASED
TECHNOLOGY, THERE IS LESS DEMAND FOR LABOR.
HENCE, THE CONSTANT CALLS BY EVERYONE FROM HM
DOWN TO DIVERSIFY THE ECONOMY. THE LATEST
ATTEMPT IS THE PUSH TO TURN BRUNEI INTO A
TOURIST HAVEN -- WHICH MEANS OPENING UP SO
PEOPLE WANT TO VISIT.

26. OF COURSE, THERE ARE LIMITS. "YOU WANT
SEX HOLIDAYS," CHUCKLES TOURISM DIRECTOR
JAMALUDDIN. "GO TO A NEIGHBORING COUNTRY."
MAYOR RAHMAN SAYS "THERE IS NO HANKY PANKY IN
BANDAR." ACTUALLY, THERE IS -- AND NOT JUST
IN THE PALACES. HOOKERS AND TRANSVESTITES
HANG OUT AT VARIOUS LOCALES AROUND TOWN. MOST
ARE ETHNIC CHINESE FROM MALAYSIA AND
INDONESIA. ONE WESTERN CONSTRUCTION MANAGER
ARRANGES "VISITING RIGHTS" FOR WOMEN TO KEEP
HIS THAI AND BANGLADESHI WORKERS HAPPY.

27. RISING CRIME IS ANOTHER MATTER.
BRUNEIANS WERE JOLTED THIS YEAR WHEN A GANG
ROBBED THE TIONG HIN SUPERSTORE AND SHOT DEAD
ONE OF THE OWNER'S FAMILY. EVEN MORE
SHOCKING: THREE OF THE FELONS WERE SECURITY
GUARDS. "THEY'LL BE HANGED," SAYS A LAWYER.
BUT STERN PUNISHMENTS SEEM NO DETERRENT.
PETTY THEFTS AND CAR-JACKINGS ARE ON THE
RISE. THESE DAYS, FAMILIES TAKE FEW CHANCES:
THERE ARE SECURITY BARS ON MOST WINDOWS. SAYS
A DIPLOMAT: "BRUNEI ISN'T AS SAFE AS IT USED
TO BE."

28. NOR IS IT AS ISLAMIC. FRIDAY IS A
HOLIDAY, BUT SHOPS OPEN AND OTHER BUSINESS
GOES ON. THERE IS NO SEGREGATION OF SEXES IN
SUPERMARKETS AS IN MALAYSIA'S CONSERVATIVE
KELANTAN STATE, NOR ARE WOMEN COVERED UP IN
BILLBOARDS AND MOVIE ADS. MANY MUSLIM WOMEN
PREFER NOT TO WEAR A HEADSCARF; THOSE WHO DO
MAY LEAVE PART OF THE HAIR EXPOSED. IN THE
ROYAL PHOTOS THAT ADORN MOST BUILDINGS, HM'S
WIVES SHOW OFF THEIR CASCADING TRESSES.

29. ALSO, UNLIKE KELANTAN, THERE IS NO PUSH
TO INSTITUTE HUDUD (ISLAMIC PENAL LAW
PERMITTING AMPUTATIONS AND STONING). STILL,
THERE ARE PROACTIVE ISLAMIC MEASURES, NOTABLY
A SCHEME TO CONVERT NATIVE PEOPLE. "IF IBANS
BECOME MUSLIMS WE PROVIDE A HOUSE FOR THEM,"
SAYS BRUNEI UNIVERSITY CHIEF ABU BAKAR APONG.
WHILE SUCH PROGRAMS GO ON. AND CONSERVATIVES
LIKE BADARUDDIN AND RAHMAN BRISTLE AT THE
NOTION OF A MORE LIBERAL SOCIETY, THERE IS NO
DOUBT BRUNEI CAN'T KEEP A WIRED WORLD AT BAY.
CONSIDER THAT THE UNIVERSITY HAS A DEDICATED
INTERNET LINE TO THE U.S. THAT IS NOT VETTED.

30. BRUNEI HAS A LONG WAY TO GO BEFORE IT
CAN COMPARE WITH OTHER SOUTHEAST ASIAN
STATES. JAMALUDDIN HOPES "TO LEARN FROM OTHER
COUNTRIES THAT GO TOO FAST." NO ONE WANTS TO
DISTURB THE COZY AFFLUENCE. "THIS IS THE BEST
COUNTRY IN THE WORLD," SAYS A SMILING RAZALI.
"WE ARE ALL HAPPY." THAT MAY BE OFFICIAL
HYPE, BUT MOST DO SEEM GENUINELY CONTENT.
"BRUNEI CAN DO ANYTHING IF IT WANTS." SAYS
DAMIT CHUCHU, OF THE BANDAR-BASED EAST ASEAN
BUSINESS COUNCIL. "WE HAVE LOTS OF MONEY. WE
ONLY LACK EXPERTISE."

31. PERHAPS THAT IS ANOTHER REASON TO OPEN
UP AND BRING IN TOURISTS AND EXPERTS. LET
THEM SEE WHAT BRUNEI HAS TO OFFER AND DISPEL
MISCONCEPTIONS. IN DOING SO, THERE MAY BE
STARTLING CHANGES THAT WILL NEED ALL HM'S
ASTUTENESS TO IMPLEMENT WITHOUT LOSING
CONTROL. BUT IF IT CAN BE DONE, BRUNEIANS AND
VISITORS WILL REAP THE REWARDS. THE TOURISM
CHIEF SEES EXAMPLES IN OTHER "LIBERALIZING"
SLAMIC STATES IN THE PERSIAN GULF. "PERHAPS
WE SHOULD BE LIKE OMAN AND LEGALIZE SOME
HOTELS TO SERVE DRINKS," SAYS JAMALUDDIN
"TOURISTS NEED NIGHTLIFE. CHAMPAGNE ON THE
BALCONY, GAZING AT THE SUNSET." VIVA, BRUNEI!

32. CHARGE'S COMMENT: THE IRONY OF MITTEN'S
ARTICLE IS THAT IT HAS POSSIBLY ACCOMPLISHED
TWO THINGS THAT IT DIDN'T INTEND. FIRST, IT
HAS PROBABLY CAUSED THE SULTAN AND PRINCE
JEFRI TO CLOSE RANKS. THEY APPEAR CLOSER NOW
THAN THEY WERE IN FEBRUARY WHEN JEFRI
RESIGNED AS FINANCE MINISTER. SECONDLY,
BECAUSE OF ITS SEEDY "REVELATIONS" IT
STRENGTHENS THE HAND OF THE RELIGIOUS
CONSERVATIVES IN THE COUNTRY, WHO UNDER THE
MANTLE OF ISLAMIZATION, OPPOSE POLITICAL AND
SOCIAL REFORM, BY BELITTLING THE EFFORTS
BRUNEI IS MAKING TO MODERNIZE.

END TEXT.

MOORE

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