Accolades from Major US Wine Critic
Press release
Waitaki Valley Wines Receive Accolades from Major US Wine Critic
In his publication International Wine Cellar, where he has recently reviewed some 1500 New Zealand wines, pre-eminent American wine critic, editor and publisher Stephen Tanzer has singled out the Waitaki Valley for special mention. Tanzer is arguably regarded as the number one US writer with particular expertise in the pinot noirs of Burgundy and the New World. As such his word has major influence in the wine world.
Released recently, after his latest tastings of some 1500 New Zealand wines, his review of five Waitaki Valley pinot noirs gives them a very high rating in his 70-100 point quality scale.
He
writes:
“.......Among the highlights of my tastings
were a small but growing number of pinot noirs from
limestone-rich sites with favored northern expositions.
Until recently, precious few such sites had been found, much
less exploited, but between the North Canterbury producers
and a growing number of wineries in Waitaki Valley in North
Otago, this category holds considerable promise for making
world-class pinots noirs with distinctive soil character and
real drive”.
Waitaki Valley Winegrower’s Association
Chairman Jim Jerram describes this significant recognition
of the new wine region’s wines as “long overdue” and
very welcome. “The pioneers in the Waitaki Valley
industry have worked very hard to produce distinct
soil-driven wines in this tiny region – in particular
wines that represent the unique terroirs of the Waitaki.
With the oldest plantings in the Valley now providing
maturing vines of 7-8 years of age we are achieving a
consistency of production and wine quality which rewards the
endeavour, expertise and sheer persistence of a handful of
dogged producers. We are now on the world wine map as
growers of small quantities of truly world class, high
quality cool-climate wines”.
Grant Taylor of Valli Wines comments “Reviewers of Tanzers ability and stature are as important as the winemakers when it comes to understanding what a new wine region is all about. His comments are encouragement to those of us who believe in the Waitaki’s potential and a significant step on the path that’s leading to it being recognized as one of the worlds most exciting wine regions.”
“Tanzer’s lucid grasp of the terroir of the Waitaki is significant. Contrary to more highly visible wine critics who favour power over subtlety, his innate understanding of the wines of Burgundy reflects in his impressions of these wines” says Ostler winemaker Jeff Sinnott. “ It is especially gratifying to see wines whose emphasis is to faithfully express their terroir rather than to impress the wine judges get the nod. In a time when the industry is undergoing a degree of globalisation this comes as welcome news for the little guy”.
Equally important is the aspect of wine age, with a 5 year old Pinot from Waitaki Valley Estates 2003 vintage also demonstrating its ability to improve in the bottle. Reading between the lines of Tanzer’s comments on younger wines it is reasonable to expect them to continue to reward cellaring, in fact it may be mandatory to allow this new region to fully express its potential. After all, the best Burgundies are neither cheap nor drunk young.
The wines reviewed:
2008 Valli Pinot Noir Waitaki Vineyard Otago
($50)
Moderately saturated bright red. Distinctive, sexy aromas of
red cherry, red raspberry, violet and black pepper; smells
like something from the Vosne/Chambolle neighborhood.
Savory, vibrant and soil-inflected, with a sappy framboise
flavor complicated and lifted by mineral precision.
Impressively broad yet tangy and light on its feet. This is
about much more than simple pinot fruit. Offers sneaky
flavor intensity without any excess sweetness or weight.
Finishes tactile, saline and long, with solid structure. I
was impressed by this producer's 2007 pinots, and this wine
is a bit less lush and more serious than the earlier
vintage. 92
2006 Ostler Vineyards Pinot Noir Caroline's
Waitaki Valley
Medium red. Sexy aromas of raspberry,
plum, mocha and earth. Broad, savory and dry, with plum and
underbrush flavors complemented by smoky minerality. Very
distinctive, pliant pinot but not about primary fruit.
Finishes chewy and long, with sweet tannins and considerable
appeal. 91
2003 Waitaki Valley Estates Pinot Noir
Doctors Creek Vineyard Waitaki Valley
(the back label
says this is produced for Waitaki Valley Estates by Forrest
Estate Wines) Dullish medium red. Fascinating nose combines
smoked meat, dried Provencal herbs, pepper, molasses and
truffle. At once pliant and penetrating, with a smoky,
savory quality to the flavors of raspberry, white pepper and
salty minerality. Conveys a powerful and wild impression of
terroir For a New Zealand pinot noir with five years of
bottle age, this maintains a solid sappy core of flavor.
Finishes with big, dusty tannins and very good length.
91
2008 Ostler Vineyards Pinot Noir Caroline's Waitaki
Valley
Good bright medium red. Complex but reticent
aromas of raspberry, strawberry, smoke and musky underbrush.
Tightly coiled and energetic but a bit youthfully dumb today
and hard to taste; less expressive and pliant than the '06,
showing some intriguing pepper and smoke elements.
Originally I wondered if this wine was as fresh as the 2006
version at a similar stage of its development, but 24 hours
later it was even more vibrant. This wine is made by Jeff
Sinnott, former winemaker for Amisfield, and this property,
on a north-facing limestone slope, was developed by
Sinnott's sister and brother-in-law. 89(+?)?
2008
Waitaki Braids Pinot Noir Otago Station Vineyard Waitaki
Valley
Bright medium red. Subtly complex aromas of red
berries, smoky minerality and sweet oak. Silky and savory
but a bit youthfully subdued, with a strong vein of acidity
energizing the berry and meat flavors. Rather tightly coiled
and in need of more give. This distinctly adult wine took on
a bit more sweetness with aeration but could use a bit more
flesh. Has the cut of a wine from limestone-rich soil.
88(+?)?
Nb Stephen Tanzer is an American wine critic,
editor and publisher of the bimonthly International Wine
Cellar since 1985,[1] with particular expertise on the wine
of Burgundy, Piemonte, Germany and Austria,[2]
Tanzer has
written wine columns for Food & Wine Magazine and Forbes
FYI. Among his books are The WineAccess Buyer's Guide and
Food and Wine Magazine's Official Wine Guide.
Tanzer's,
also employing a modern rating system on a 70-100 point
quality scale, is considered in direct competition with
Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate,[2] though Tanzer's
"controlled prose" is in contrast to the more flamboyant
style of
Parker.[3]
Ends