NOM*D Celebrates 21st Birthday With Silhouettes

NOM*D - What better way for NOM*D to celebrate their 21st birthday than by referencing their own silhouettes and garments from previous collections, with influences over the years from punks, artists, filmmakers, musicians, the military, delicate vintage dressing and more.

The runway was covered with white sand with florescent blubs scattered through the centre. From when the first model hit the runway we saw those qualities that are immediately recognisable as NOM*D - a dark and masculine aesthetic, experimental garment construction, and a fascination with vintage fabrics, techniques and antique garments.

Distinctive and historical NOM*D looks were mixed in a heavily layered and strongly styled show. The styling was perfectly synonymous with NOM*D - black vinyl tights were matched with patent Doc Martin boots, large studded belts had a tough punk feel, and oversized hoods were worn low on the face, especially for guys.

I loved the long woollen and leather fingerless gloves, often mismatched and worn with (fake) armour on one hand. Attention was drawn to the head with hairnets, beanies, and mod-inspired hats.

Subtle signatures of the "XXI" Winter 08 collection include black-on-black, textured rayon and taffeta and various shades of blue and re-worked vintage. Shimmering accessories featured throughout – such as a men's blazer with literally hundreds of safety pins adorning the collar.

Black, of course, dominated the colour palette, offset with regal blue, purple, burnt orange, white, and shades found in previous collections. The graphic print of one of the label’s most popular collections - "Don't Shoot" - was spotted on a black vest, and a gold stencil print from the "C'mon" collection transformed a t-shirt into deconstructed cloak.

A favourite was a masculine inspired dress made from suiting fabric, styled with a large black belt and oversized vest. The white frosted plastic anorak was another standout – especially amongst such a dark palette. Post show, designer Margarita Robertson tells me she "used vintage pieces and bought them into the future by using things like plastic".

Yet again, NOM*D broke boundaries in a standout, mesmerizing show.

Pia Christiansen

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