Last great problem of New Zealand mountains climbed

15 July 2013

Last great problem of New Zealand mountains climbed

The West Face of Mt Tutoko, in Fiordland’s Darran Mountains has been climbed for the first time in winter, by renowned Kiwi solo alpinist Guy McKinnon.

At 2,000 metres high, the West Face of Mt Tutoko (2,723m) is one of the tallest mountain walls in New Zealand. It is at least the equal of the 2000-metre high Caroline Face, the biggest wall on New Zealand’s highest peak Aoraki Mt Cook (3,754m).

For many years a winter ascent has been regarded as one of the last great unclimbed challenges in New Zealand climbing.

In typically bold and daring style, McKinnon chose to attempt the wall in winter, when short days, freezing temperatures, snow and ice made it especially challenging.

The frigid winter conditions forced him to spend a sleepless night bivouacked near the summit and another sleepless night making the descent and walk-out.

New Zealand Alpine Club General Manager Sam Newton praised McKinnon’s achievement: “This is an extremely significant ascent in New Zealand’s climbing history. The West Face of Mt Tutoko has held a fascination for climbers for generations.

“This climb has been a coveted route for generations. The climbing ability and mental strength required to carry out such a difficult ascent is of the highest order. To do it alone and in winter is simply incredible.”

In 2010, McKinnon became the first person to make solo ascents of all 34 of New Zealand's 3000-metre mountains.

When asked, Guy commented: “This face loomed in my imagination for several years, and after two unsuccessful attempts I was determined to succeed.”

“The climbing was of classical alpine quality, the peak itself dominant in its locale, both geographically and in terms of the kaitiakitanga Tutoko holds over that region.

“It is a very special route.”

McKinnon is renowned for climbing alone, and has been successful on a number of very difficult and previously unclimbed mountain routes both in New Zealand and overseas. In 2010, he became the first person to make solo ascents of all 34 of New Zealand's 3000-metre mountains.

ENDS

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